HOW TO DEAL WITH ADULT HORMONAL ACNE

What's the deal with grown-up acne?

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Gone are our days of puberty, but adulthood has a new problem to throw our way: hormonal acne. Although it may resemble regular acne, adult hormonal acne has a more complex system of causes and treatments. Affecting women more frequently than men, the cystic nightmare is one of the most common skin conditions in adult women, which means there’s fortunately lots of information and solutions for combating it.

THE UGLY TRUTH
As the name suggests, hormonal acne is caused by an imbalance of hormones and can affect anyone. It’s often categorised by ‘cyclical breakouts’ coinciding with your menstrual cycle, but can also align with significant physiological shifts such as pregnancy, childbirth and menopause, or hormonal changes linked to conditions like polycystic ovarian syndrome (PCOS). Usually, the acne shows up on the lower chin, but can extend to the entire face, neck and back.

What causes these nasty buggers to show up? Blame your sex hormones: oestrogen, progesterone and androgens. These hormones stimulate your sebaceous glands (responsible for secreting oil called sebum), which can clog pores and cause acne. Oestrogen helps to regulate and lower the production of sebum, whereas progesterone and androgens (particularly testosterone) ramp up the production of sebum. This type of acne is inflammatory and suddenly occurs or worsens when you’re in your 20s but can affect all ages. In fact, more than 50% of women experience it.

EW! GET RID OF IT
Hormonal acne isn’t your fault – we all go through fluctuations in our hormones and have different skin types, some of which secrete more sebum. Your best bet is to visit a dermatologist who can get to the root cause of the acne, especially if you have cystic (inflammatory) acne.

If you’re noticing mild to moderate blackheads and whiteheads, then you can treat it yourself with lifestyle changes and over-the-counter skincare treatments, but if you’re facing cystic acne, you may need to use prescription oral or topical medications.

TIPS TO PREVENT ACNE SCARRING AND FURTHER INFECTION

• Resist the temptation to pick or squeeze pimples.
• Expect to use treatments for at least two months before seeing improvement and use them correctly to achieve maximum benefit.
• Cleanse your skin twice daily with a mild soap or gentle cleanser and water.
• It’s best to stay away from facial scrubs or exfoliants.
• Choose an oil-free moisturiser and wear make-up that is oil-free or water-based.
• Look for ‘non-comedogenic’ on product labels (which should not cause blackheads or whiteheads) and ones containing salicylic acid.
• Avoid direct sun exposure and use a water-based sunscreen daily.
• Eat more leafy greens and anti-inflammatory foods (like oats and berries).

The two major oral prescription medications prescribed for regulating and stabilising hormones are birth control pills and spironolactone, both of which decrease the effects of androgens in your body. Accutane (a potent form of vitamin A) could be prescribed, but it can be harmful so your doctor will monitor your dosage through blood tests.

If you’d prefer to use topical treatments, retinoids are a first line of defence. They help to keep your oil glands clean so that bacteria 22 don’t have anything to feed off to create inflammation in your skin. Prescription-strength retinoids are most effective against cystic acne, as many of them are formulated with additional benefits like antibiotics and anti-inflammatories.

You can also find over-the-counter benzoyl peroxide formulas, which are topical ointments that assist with unclogging pores and preventing the build-up of bacteria. They can be harsh on sensitive skin, so always test it out or speak to your doctor before buying.

HORMONAL ACNE ISN'T YOUR FAULT - WE ALL GO THROUGH FLUCTUATIONS IN OUR HORMONES AND HAVE DIFFERENT SKIN TYPES

FIGHT IT FROM THE INSIDE OUT
Your diet greatly affects your skin. Sugar, oily foods, dairy, processed food, caffeine and alcohol can spike acne-causing hormones – as well as other hormones like insulin, which has a ripple effect on the rest of the hormones that can cause inflammation and breakouts. Try limiting your intake of these foods significantly for at least two weeks to see if your skin calms down.

Stress and lack of sleep can also worsen hormonal acne, since the stress hormone cortisol can send your oil glands into overdrive, leading to excess oiliness, inflammation and pimples. When your cortisol levels are continuously high, it can trigger breakouts. So get your eight hours of sleep in, and practise healthy ways of managing stress.

Hormonal acne can be an annoying part of life – especially when it’s in plain view of everyone. But it won’t last forever. Speak to a doctor about treatment options and adopt a lifestyle that reduces stress and triggers.

Words by: Saadiqah Schroeder
Photos: Gallo/Getty Images, supplied.